Cook the Pici in a saucepan with plenty of boiling, salted water; only stir them when they have softened. Pici take quite a long time to cook, so you’ll need a little patience.

In the meanwhile clean the leeks, removing the green parts and the roots. Use a knife to cut through two “layers” of their skin lengthwise and remove them with your hands. Cut them into slices approximately ½ cm thick and sauté them, with the oil, in a thick-bottomed frying pan that’s large enough to contain the pasta as well. Then add the nutmeg, turn up the heat and pour in the Vino Novo. When the alcohol has evaporated, blend the leeks and the liquid that has formed, and then put the creamed sauce back into the frying pan. Drain the Pici when they are “al dente”(setting aside a glass of the water they were cooked in) and heat them in the frying pan with the creamed leeks, the pasta water and grated pecorino. Stir well to mix the pasta with the sauce and then serve immediately.